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Hua Hin Overview
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Hua Hin Railway StationBuilt during the reign of King Rama VI, and only a short distance from the centre of town, Hua Hin's railway station and adjacent royal waiting room are undeniably attractive. The brightly painted wooden buildings that are Thai in concept and design somehow manage to have a 'Victorian' feel to them.
The story about the birth of Hua Hin as a royal seaside getaway town would be incomplete without a mention of this historic railway station. Back in the early days, there was no road access to this idyllic beach town, and train travel was a new and delightful alternative to get from Bangkok to Hua Hin instead of by boat.
Opening Hours: 7.00 am - 11.00 pm
Location: Western end of Damnernkasem Road
Maruekathaiyawan PalaceLike many buildings in Hua Hin, this Thai-Victorian style summer seaside palace was constructed in the early 1920s during the reign of King Rama VI. It was designed by an Italian architect and built with golden teak from the demolished Hat Chao Samran Palace, with lots of verandas, latticework and high ceilings to keep the structure cool during summer.
Set on a vast manicured landscape fronting idyllic Cha Am Beach, the candy-coloured mansion comprises three one-storey pavilions with more than 1,000 pillars supporting them to avoid flood damage. All buildings are connected by covered boardwalks, designed to catch cool breezes from all directions, leading all the way to the beach front.
Today, the royal halls and chambers are set up as a walk-through museum, decorated with royal artifacts and framed vintage photographs. Photography is not permitted in some of the rooms, and be sure to dress politely when you go (no shorts, skirts, tank tops or spaghetti strap tops).
Opening Hours: 8.00 am - 4.00 pm
Location: 9km south of Cha-Am at the Camp Rama VI military compound
Hua Hin Night MarketSituated in the Hua Hin centre between the Petchkasem Road and the railway line, the market basically encompasses one street that comes to life from 6.30 am onwards, when traders line the street with their stalls selling various apparel, crafts, art, CDs, DVDS and cheap, tasty food – generally what you might expect from a Thai market.
This is by no means the best place to shop in Thailand; you will finder a bigger variety of goods in Bangkok or say, Chiang Mai. However, Hua Hin does have a superb selection of seafood restaurants that line the road that hosts the Night Market, drawing a lot of attention from visitors eager to feast on the quality dishes on offer.
Seafood
The seafood restaurants in this part of town are incredibly popular due to their atmosphere, quality of food and Thai-style low prices. With minimal space between each establishment, you can pretty much expect the same thing from each place and prices that closely compare to their neighbours’. Each restaurant usually has a small vending station outside where food is both prepared and sold on a street food basis. The usual seafood ice trays laden with freshly caught fish, crab and lobsters might help sway your choice – the bigger the better.
Entertainment
Like Chaing Mai Night Bazaar, the mere market experience is entertainment in itself. Here is where you can get a real grasp of local culture and opportunity by practicing your Thai during the bartering process. Even if nothing on offer suits your fancy, just walking around and soaking up the atmosphere is a great source of entertainment with the various street vendors and live entertainers around.
Most of the restaurants on the street double as bars where you can enjoy a beer or cocktail while watching the crowds move up the street. At the top end of the street moving away from the sea, you will come to Prapokklao Road, which is lively street consisting of shops, bars and restaurants.
Wat Huay MongkolThis Buddhist temple is home to the world’s largest statue of Luang Phor Thuad, a legendary southern Thai monk revered for his enlightenment and ability to perform miracles. Many believe that the amulets created in his image guarantee safety in times of distress. The statue, set within a park-like setting that attracts many visitors each weekend, was commissioned by HM Queen Sirikit and is the first thing you see when approaching Hua Hin from Highway 4 (heading to Prachuab Kirikhand). Sitting in the meditation pose, it looms overhead once you arrive on the worship ground.
Opening Hours: 5.00 am – 10.00 pm
Location: From Phetkasem Road (Highway 4, heading to Prachaub Kirikhand), take Highway 3218 and continue about 15km.
Klai Kang Won PalaceOne of the quintessential landmarks of Hua Hin, Klai Kang Won Palace is the summer residence of HM King Bhumibhol Adulyadej (Rama IX) and other members of the royal family. Klai Kang Won, meaning ‘far from worries’, is aptly named after the peace and serenity of the surrounding landscape, fronting a secluded stretch of the Hua Hin beachfront.
When the palace is not occupied, it’s open to the public, but you’ll have to get a permit from the Royal Household Office to be able to visit. A small admission fee is also charged.
Opening Hours: 8.30 am - 3.30 pm (only when the palace is not occupied)
Location: Phet Kasem Road
Khao TakiabOne of the biggest attractions in the province, Khao Takiab translates as ‘Chopstick Mountain’ although you may hear it being referred to as Monkey Mountain due to the monkeys that inhabit it. Take note that you should never under any circumstances trust a monkey; they don’t get their reputation for being cheeky from nowhere. Keep bags zipped and under no circumstances give them any food.
With that out the way, the mountain is home to a hilltop temple giving way to a sensational view of Hua Hin. The start of the hike up to the temple is marked by a large bell and a flight of stairs up to the main shrine, a pagoda-like structure.
Once at the top you can hang out with the monkeys, take a few photographs, shop at numerous stalls or admire the Buddhist shrine.
Khao Singto (Lion Island)
Located on the coast of Khao Takiab the name means ‘Lion Island’ due to the fact that from the air it resembles a crouching lion. The island is located about 10km from Hua Hin District and can be reached by taking a boat from Khao Takiab fishing village. Once there (roughly a 20-minute journey) most people enjoy soaking up the rays, sailing and fishing and for those who seek better acquaintance with Thailand’s marine life, snorkels can be rented. A round trip will last around five hours with the option of food for those who require it.
Wat Nowkan
A small temple that is by no means the most magnificent within the area but nevertheless has an endearing format, especially if you visit at midday when the monks lead meditation classes with children. The immediate outside of the temple is pretty with a few weeping willows and attractive flowers.
Takiab Bay Beyond Khao Takiab Temple and viewpoint, lies Takiab Bay; easily missed it if you didn't know it was there. In addition to being a nice beach with clear water there are also elephant rides, boats to offshore islands including Koh Singto and a number of nice restaurants.
Khao Sam Roi Yot National ParkKhao Sam Roi Yot’s dramatic backdrop of endless limestone peaks festooned in lush greenery inspired its name (Khao Sam Roi Yot means ‘the mountain with three hundred peaks’). Covering an area of nearly 100sqkm along the coast, approximately 60km south of Hua Hin, Khao Sam Roi Yot is as close as it gets to Krabi Province’s dream-like seascapes in the south of Thailand. Peppered with marshes, wetlands and mangrove swamps, the mountains house an abundance of wildlife, including barking deer, crab-eating macaques and serow, an Asian goat-antelope.
The park is also home to many resident and migratory birds, as well as Tham Phraya Nakhon, a cave with a hole in its roof that allows a perpendicular shaft of light to shine upon a Thai-style pavilion built for King Rama V – one of its most popular attractions.
Nature Lovers’ Paradise
Cave exploration and hiking are equally fulfilling activities. About 400 metres from the park’s headquarters, a 30-minute, 300-metre hike up the hill takes you to a scenic sunrise viewpoint at Khao Daeng (best time to go 5.30 am – 7.00 am). Not a morning person? Then try visiting one of the caves dotting the peaks. Kaeo Cave is tucked deep in the mountains, and to get there you need to trek along an uneven, jungle-clad trail for two hours (contact the headquarters for a guide). Alternatively, Sai Cave, a 30-minute, 280-metre hike uphill about nine km from the headquarters, is easier to get to. Both caves boast magnificent translucent stalactites and stalagmites.
Phraya Nakhon Cave
Not to be missed, though, is the majestic Phraya Nakhon Cave. Hemmed in on three sides by steep limestone mountains, the cave entrance is about 430 metres uphill from Laem Sala Beach. Inside, the expansive cove houses the lone Thai-style pavilion dedicated to King Chulalongkorn (Rama V). Set directly under two large shafts, where sunlight beams through in early morning, the pavilion appears rather mystical and all together surreal. The best time to go to catch this perfect ‘downlight’ is 10.30 am.
To get to the cave, take a 20-minute long-tail boat ride to Laem Sala Beach and hike another 30 minutes up a steep, forested trail. From the parking lot, you can also hike about an hour along a steep cliff trail, overlooking the picturesque coast.
Location: 60km south of Hua Hin, in Guiburi, Prachaub Kirikhand
Plern WanNot just a themed open-air mall, Plearn Wan feels more like a living museum where you can experience a slice of life in 1950s Hua Hin. Plern Wan’s two-storey courtyard-style building, an architectural statement in itself, houses a community of period-style shops selling everything from liquor, inexpensive plastic-and-tin toys, snacks as well as a beauty salon, photo studio, outdoor cinema screen and a 20-room guesthouse or ‘Piman Plern Wan’.
From the main street, Plern Wan’s curious looking entrance – a giant structure fashioned from reclaimed wooden planks – is hard to miss. Stepping through the small opening (compared to the wooden structure) is like stepping into a time machine – suddenly, you find yourself surrounded by all things vintage. When it’s crowded, usually at night, the festive atmosphere resembles that of a well-organised temple fair from decades ago.
The Highlights – Reliving the Nostalgia
Food is the main highlight at Plearn Wan. But other than the usual pad thai or grilled meat skewers, you will find a good mix of old and new. Hard-to-find snacks, such as ‘tong muan sod’ (sweetened pancake) and ‘ka lor jee’ (similar to Japanese mochi), are cooked up by order at one of the hawker carts lining the walkway along with typical fare such as noodles and barbecued pork over rice. And if you are a fan of Thai sweets, you will find a myriad of mouthwatering recipes here, from mango sticky rice to grass jelly with shaved ice and preserved fruits in sweetened syrup.
Besides hopping from one food cart to the next, shopping is another favourite pastime for visitors to Plern Wan. The collection of one-off souvenirs, toys, clothing, fashion accessories and even a shop selling various kinds of ‘nam prik’ (chili paste) is quite impressive – even if you don’t buy anything, it makes for quite a pleasurable look around.
Opening Hours: 10.00 am – 10.00 pm (Mon-Thurs), 10.00 am – midnight (Fri), 9.00 am – midnight (Sat), 9.00 am – 10.00 pm (Sun)
Location: Phetkasem Road (between Hua Hin Sois 38 and 40), close to Klai Kang Won Palace
Kaeng Krachan National ParkJust two hours’ drive from Bangkok, Kaeng Krachan is one of Thailand’s most bountiful and ecologically diverse national parks. The park’s 2,915sqm forest area consists of pristine rainforests, granite mountain ranges, waterfalls, caves and a reservoir lake, offering plenty of trekking and bird-watching opportunities. The park features many wild as well as endangered animals, including black-and-yellow broadbills, barking deer, tapirs, Asian elephants, tigers, wild dogs and Asiatic leopards.
Highlights
Due to abundant year-round rainfall, Kaeng Krachan’s forest covers are blessed with several waterfalls, rivers and streams. Pa La-U Waterfall, one of the most well-known in the park, has 15 levels and flows along a creek stretching out to the Burmese border. Most visitors stop at the third level, where a large, deep pool invites a dip or swim. From this level on, the path becomes rough and steep. Those who are not physically fit may not be able to continue.
Other waterfalls require hours of trekking in deep, steep forests, and some are overnight trips. You can set up a camp along the way at provided campgrounds. To complete the Thorthip- Tharnthip-Hinlad waterfall loop, you need three to four days of trekking.
Besides waterfall trekking, you can hire a boat, canoe or kayak and sightsee inside Kaeng Krachan reservoir. Panoen Thung Moutain, Kaeng Krachan’s second highest peak at 1,207 metres above sea level, is a scenic camping site but requires about five to six hours of trekking along the six-kilometre hard trail.
Location: About 115 kilometres from Bangkok, along Highway 4
Cha-Am Forest ParkThis is by no means up to the National Park standards but if you fancy a relaxed day amid some pretty scenery then Cha-Am forest park is definitely a worthwhile choice. Situated on Phetkasem Road, it is easily reached by taking the Narathip junction when coming from the direction of the beach.
The 665,600sqm park is part of Don Masang National Reserved Forest and sits on a lowland area covered in casuarina trees, cacti and a wide range of tropical plants. Crisscrossing the park, a large, freeform lake is home to several species of water fowl. If you are lucky, you might be able to spot a few peacocks, monkeys and palm civets.
Park Activities
Due to its serene landscape, a lot of families and couples come here to chill out and picnic. A paved trail, running throughout the park, is ideal for jogging and cycling. There’s also an area to set up overnight camps around the lake, as well as park-operated bungalows and restaurant. So, it’s not a real campout in the jungle but rather a relaxing overnight excursion in beautiful natural surrounds.
Location: About 3km south of Cha-Am intersection on Phetkasem Road.